Texas - We've got Competition!!

Well, I made it through my first week up here in the land of Native American Indians and started my second week scraping ice from the windshield of my car. Yes, this Southeast Texas on Galveston Bay gal had to scrape ice off the car windows so she could see to drive. We, rather “I” don’t do ice! I used my hotel key cards for the scraping – worked pretty good too!

Being a Texan (by osmosis, I admit it) we are used to people telling us how friendly we are and of course we always brag about our hospitality. Well, folks, I think I’ve met our match! Now, most all ya’ll know, I am a friendly person – never met a stranger and if I did, they weren’t a stranger for long.

First morning here, went to eat breakfast at the hotel and out pops the lady who takes care of refreshing the catering dishes and making sure everything is ship shape. She walks into the room and in this big voice not only wishes me a good morning but she sings it as well. Come on, it’s 7 AM, my eyes are barely open and this lady is singing “Oh What a Beautiful Morning.”?!

And it doesn’t end there. I walk out into the lobby, people look at you and smile like they’re at a pickin’ and grinnin’ contest! It’s an explosion of hellos, hi there’s and good mornings! And then there’s the traffic… ok, there’s really not much traffic in Bartlesville. It takes me nearly five whole minutes to get to the office parking lot!

Being, that last Monday was my first trek to the office, I was not quite sure where I was going and ended up in the wrong lane on a street where the lanes merge. I slow way down and wait for the car to the right of me to go on…. He stops! Signals me to move over and away we go. This is not what happens in Houston that’s for sure. You make the mistake of getting on one of those roads where the two lanes merge to one and you are tough out of luck until there’s a break in traffic. Not here! The driving courtesy is something to see – people actually let you in, wait for you to exit and in general give you the right of way even if it’s not yours!

And, no one seems to be in a hurry driving. I am used to my Houston style of driving – slightly aggressive to “get the blankety-blank outta my way – you’re goin’ too slow!”

Left lane, right lane, doesn’t matter up here. Folks are just easy going and they know they have only a short distance to travel so why hurry? Road rage has been replaced by Road Respect – everyone respects the other driver.

Went to a pretty nice restaurant for dinner last week – sat in a lovely little booth and waited to be waited on. Now, I admit, I wasn’t in the best of moods, so I was a tad grumpy – not sure why. When the little waiter guy came by to take my order, he was one of those super happy, what are we having today and aren’t we having such a wonderful day people that seem to be in abundance up here. I looked at him with my not-so-friendly face and he just grinned so big! Another competitor for the pickin’ and grinnin’ contest!

He brought my drink – it wasn’t right. The unhappy camper here said, “This isn’t what I ordered /wanted.”

“Really,” says little pickin’ and grinnin’ waiter – no problem. We’ll fix it!”  And, he did. You know, it’s kind of hard to stay in a bad mood (and I tried) when everyone around you is so dang happy! So, I put on my happy face and oh my gosh, the level of kindness went up even higher. And, yeah, he got a good tip!

  

Oh, and politeness – this is way over and above. People actually hold the elevator doors for you even if you’re at the other end of the hallway! They wait and they do it with a smile. Then, they ask you how you’re doing! You can’t get on an elevator without someone saying hi or have a good day as they exit! People are gonna talk to you whether you like it or not so it’s best to get used to this level of friendliness and just jump in with both feet.

They like being friendly and it shows. Yeah, Houston, we’ve got heavy competition in the “friendly” state! These Okies are giving us a real run for our money on the friendliness scale!

Traveling in Style!

I’m baaaack! I know, it’s been a tad bit of a long time, but I had a bit of a respite from work this summer, for which I thoroughly took advantage! Today, I am writing you from another land of Indians – this time, American Indians! And, of course, I’m much closer to home than previously!

I am in the land of the Plains Apaches, the Arapahos, Caddos, Comanches, Kiowas, Osage and Wichita Tribes. Yes, folks, I am in Oklahoma – Bartlesville to be exact. And, why you ask? I’m on another work project – gotta say, it’s great to be a consultant!! I get to visit some really cool places and see all kinds of interesting things.

I left off with my adventures in India sitting somewhere between an Indian wedding and finding real beef in Mumbai. But I do have one or two tales yet from that far off country. Just a couple of weeks before I left, my colleagues and I visited the famous Elephanta Island – an island with caves and sculptures carved from the stone of the island, dating back to the 7^th century,  off the coast of Mumbai, just a 45 minute ride by ferry from the Gateway to India. The cave temples are dedicated to the Hindu God, Shiva Mahadeva.

Along with my co-workers, were two young men from the Indian Army, friends of my office mate and our driver, the young man responsible for getting us to and from the office each day safely and in one piece. He did his job admirably!

The fellas and I left our hotel early in the morning for the trip into Mumbai hoping to avoid the heavy traffic that occurs even on Sunday. However, we did have to slow down for a herd (about eight) of cattle that happened to be crossing the street (downtown) right in front of us. If there had been cowboys on horseback, it might have been considered a cattle drive. However, these cows were all alone, no one around to “herd” them as it were. Guess they were practicing the old question of why the chicken crossed the road!

We made it to the Gateway where we boarded a two-tiered ferry with plastic chairs on both decks for our ride to the island. The day was balmy yet heavily laden with smoke causing visibility to very limited. The ferry was fully loaded with weekend tourists off to see the island.

We arrived at high tide making it easy to jump off the ferry onto the island’s off-loading dock. The pier leading out to the ferry was teeming with vendors hawking their fruits and sweets. Indian ladies in their brightly colored saris beckoned to us to purchase the delicacies they offered – I passed  - I just wasn’t too sure about what I might be eating.

 We next saw where we were to board a small train / tram that would take us to the entrance of the island attraction. We all managed to grab a seat and the tram took off while cows, goats and monkeys lolled on the other side of the pier.

We hopped off the tram, bought our tickets to visit the caves and headed up. When I say up, I’m talking up I’m saying there were nearly 130 steps to the top of the island…. This young lady has a hard time going up the stairs in her house!

We stopped prior to the large stone steps going straight up and bought a soda to wet our whistles. I set my soda on a wooden fence railing to snap a photo of the monkeys that were just so cute running around the tree. One of those cute little miscreants was so fast, he ran to the fence grabbed my soda and ran back to the tree. He then proceeded to pour it out so they all could have a drink. Yeah, they’re cute all right!!

 Luckily for me, I didn’t have to walk up all those stairs!! No, there were no elevators or escalators… instead, I saw chairs and sat in one. Immediately, four strapping (and I do mean strapping – they had to be) young men lifted the poles extending from the chair and up in the air I went! I bet I squealed the whole way up to the top! I just knew the burly young men would drop me. 

Our driver was walking beside us and I grabbed his hand and held on, informing him that he would have to catch me should I tumble out of the chair – there was no seatbelt either!

Keep in mind, I am not a light weight…. I have gained a few pounds over the years and these poor guys were straining. The look on our driver’s face when I told him he would need to catch me should I fall was… well…. Wide-eyed!!

All the way up, people stared at this woman being carried like Cleopatra by her servants in a brightly colored, purple, green, pink and orange chair. My response – “it’s the only way to travel”!! people actually laughed and cheered as I gracefully (as graceful as one can be sitting precariously in a walking chair with her purse on her lap bouncing up and up narrow, step stairs) used my “princess” wave to all – you would’ve  thought I was the hit of the parade!

Finally, they reached the point of no return.  And summarily dropped me a few stair steps from the top saying it was time for me to hop off this lovely ride. I paid the young men more than I should, but it was well worth it! And, now I’m only a few steps from the top of the island and the beautiful stone temples and sculptures of Elphanta Island.

Pictures from my adventure can be viewed on FB at: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3323652165480.152492.1093628880&type=3&l=2fc9500a3a

It's a Wedding!

You never know when you will get invited to a wedding – spur of the moment invitation. In fact, during dinner!

As I was eating dinner in the downstairs dining room of my hotel, I was rudely assaulted by a loud banging and crashing! Noises that would deafen anyone’s ears. I got up to see what was the matter and coming out of the elevators were drummers beating on metallic drums (sounded much like the banging on garbage cans) and then appeared four young dancing girls all dressed in the most beautiful colors of the rainbow. Their saris, laced with silver and gold, whirled and twirled, glinting off the lights from the hotel lobby.

Following the dancers was a large group of people surrounding a young man dressed in the most elegant Hindu attire I have ever seen. His coat was studded in jewels, stones and beads. His headdress was even more amazing – it was a beautiful jeweled turban that sat on his head like a crown, with chains of flowers and beaded rope serving as a veil covering his face.

Everyone was laughing, happy, excited and getting more excited as the drummers banged on their drums! The dancers danced throughout the lobby while I stood there looking on. I am smiling at the folks, clapping my hands in appreciation of their ceremony when a nicely dressed gentleman in a suit and tie grabs my hand and brings me out into the middle of the lobby to dance with him! He too is wearing a jeweled turban in pink – symbolizing that he is on the groom’s side of the family.

There I am, in boots, jeans and jacket just a dancin’ away – of course I have no clue what I am doing, but I kick my heels up and do a bit of a jig trying to mimic the dancers. The crowd begins moving toward the doors and head outside in the drive thru area of the hotel where a full brass band awaits them and begins playing…. Loudly!!

The young man, I was told, is a groom preparing for his wedding that will take place that evening following the ceremony currently going on. In a Hindu wedding, it is customary for the groom to keep his face veiled until the wedding ceremony. Once in the street, dancers dancing, drums beating and horns blaring, the groom must go to his bride in style – on the back of a beautifully decked out Arabian mare. But first, he must feed the horse till it is full – not sure why, but that is part of the custom.

The horse was as decorated as the groom – its blanket was stone-studded and glittered under the illumination held by “light carriers.” About 10 carriers (people) held globed light fixtures high above their heads, each with four lit globes.

So, I’m standing there at the edge of the street when Prachi, (the hotel’s sales consultant) grabs me and pulls me back onto the parking area. She looks at me and says, “Just wait.”… Within seconds the road explodes with firecrackers shooting everywhere! There is about a 50 ft. strip of firecrackers laid down in the middle of the street and cars are trying to go around the lit and blasting fireworks!

Watching the tuk-tuks (auto rickshaws) and the dump trucks (my hotel is next to a dump truck yard) try to navigate through the throngs of people and the fireworks, was almost funny – reminded me of the Three Stooges!!

But back to the groom, dancers, band and followers. The groom finally feeds the horse until it’s full, and then mounts the horse. Unfortunately, the horse is not cooperating and within seconds, the groom is summarily dumped to the street! This is not the way it’s supposed to happen. He is supposed to ride the horse with his followers merrily dancing and clapping behind him to his bride’s house.

In the meantime, the dancers are dancing in the street (after the fireworks have fizzled out) and gentleman with suit grabs me again to dance in the street! The band is playing a merry jig – of course it’s an Indian jig and I do my best to follow the dancers’ movements. I’m not doing too badly and I sort break out into a Texas two-step and a little line dancing. After all, I am wearing my boots and jeans! The photographers run to where we are dancing and for the next 10 minutes film me and the dancers – I am now the center of attention!

As the crowd begins to move down the street, the groom finds himself in a car with a moon-roof and stands up with his head and shoulders above the car roof. The band continues to play as they begin winding their way toward the bride’s house/hall/event venue where the wedding will take place.

I try to, unobtrusively, dance back to the hotel driveway when I am stopped by not only the gentleman with whom I shared a few steps and kicks, but by the groom’s mother who tells me what a wonderful dancer I am and how happy they were that I joined their party. Then several elderly ladies grab my hands and arms and smile widely saying thank you to me! I’m the one who is honored by them allowing me to be a part of their celebration I tell them! All the wonderful people in the crowd shook my hand and patted me on the shoulder expressing their delight. This was one of the highlights of my adventure without a doubt!

Who knew a Texas gal doing the two-step and boot-scootin’ boogie would add so much fun to a Hindu pre-wedding ceremony?

It's Where I "Live"

It’s been a few (three I think) weeks since my last posting. I’m getting a little behind on keeping everyone abreast of my adventures in the Far East.

I left off with our Christmas dinner prepared by the wonderful chefs at my hotel. And, here is where I put in a little plug for home away from home. Should anyone desire to come to Navi Mumbai, I highly recommend the Royal Orchid. However, with that recommendation comes a few caveats.


My room is nicely sized. I especially like my bathroom and shower. The shower is BIG! The hot water is immediate and the shower head is removable from the wall… something that is really nice especially if I choose not to wash my hair each day.

I have a huge king-sized bed and I guarantee, I use every inch (I’m all of 5’ 2”, but boy, can I spread out!!). The staff is very generous with pillows – six nice, fluffy pillows adorn my bed. When one gets ‘hot’, I simply pull one from the other side of the bed and voila! – a new pillow for the taking!

I have a nice desk, Wi-Fi and every evening I have fresh fruit (usually apples) and cookies! Of course I do love the cookies – they’re the shortbread kind and just perfect for a quick snack before dinner.

Television is… well…. It’s unusual. I have three movie channels that come in fairly well. TV here is unlike home that’s for sure – but then, this is India! At home, I can find a Law & Order at nearly any hour of the day or night. Not so here. For some reason, those channels are blocked. If I catch them just right at the right time on the right day, I might find a CSI if the signal is clear.

Some of the Indian channels are very interesting however. They have a channel just for sleeping babies! The cartoon channels are really kind of cute – if I only knew what they were saying. And, the Indian movies – now there is an experience! Most of them are similar to musicals in the U.S. but with a lot more dancing. The costumes and dancing are really phenomenal!

But back to the hotel. This past weekend, I managed to catch whatever bug was floating around and was stuck in bed for two solid days. Because I felt so badly, I turned on my privacy button – the one that is supposed to let everyone (the staff that is) know that I do not want to be disturbed.

Three times during the day I received a phone call, “Madame, we notice your privacy light is on, are you all right?” If I had a voice, I would have screamed by the time the third call was made. I wake up Monday morning to a note that had been slid under my door. “Your privacy light was on all day, we are checking to make sure you wanted it on.” Well…………DUH!!

Oh, I forgot one of the calls – “Madame, our staff member is outside your door with your laundry.” Again, privacy light is ON, can they wait until tomorrow? It’s a good thing I’m not having a torrid affair of some sort! Those dang phone calls would probably happen at the most inopportune times!! But, it is nice to know that they do care and want to make sure their guests are getting the best care possible.

Speaking of laundry, this is the part I love! No need to bring 50 pairs of underwear, 10 t-shirts or other items that normally would be all used up in four months. I just put my dainties, t-shirts, jeans in the laundry bag provided, circle my selections, drop it on the bed and by the evening when I return home – fresh, clean undies await me. Not only clean and fresh, but ironed and folded! I’m lucky they make it out of the dryer when I’m at home!

I don’t know how much more of this spoiling I can take….. !

It’s all about the food

As most of my friends and acquaintances know, I like to eat... I like food! It shows too! So, here I am in the land of Indian spices, aromatic herbs, five day celebrations for everything from a new child, a marriage (which can last up to 10 days I’m told), house warming’s and more and I make a huge discovery!

It’s not so much of a discovery as it is a confirmation that I am a spice wimp! I know, I know, I’m from Texas where TexMex is either hot, hotter or downright head popping! I love a fresh pica de gallo, the onions, the cilantro, tomatoes, even the green chilies! That I can handle…. I don’t do bell peppers, red peppers, jalapeño’s, or chili peppers… ever!

Yet, there is a difference between good old TexMex and Indian food – the real stuff made right here in India! The amount of spices used in almost every Indian dish can be equated to the amount of salt in the Dead Sea! OK, that is a slight exaggeration – but spice wimp can smell the turmeric, coriander, ginger, Aamchur, Garam Masala and other pungent spices from across the street!

However, spice wimp is tasting, learning and actually beginning to enjoy some of the “lighter” Indian dishes. In fact, the other night our chef prepared an incredible dish that I think was called chicken masala. The sauce was absolutely wonderful. The chicken was tender and tasty. But mostly, I loved the sauce over rice. Oh, the rice here is not what we see as rice at home. This rice is longer grained, light, airily fine and ever so delicate.

A week or so ago, there was an ad in the local Indian newspaper (they are all in English BTW) touting a steak dinner that even a Texan would approve of. Well, I took that as a challenge! Donning my jeans, western shirt, gold Texas pendant, my Rodeo earrings and carrying my red and blue purse with the big Texas star on it, I headed for the hotel advertising said steak. Also, you must realize, that beef here in India is almost unheard of – so this was a very special treat-to-be!

The advertisement said it was a wine and steak fest – every steak ordered received a free glass of wine – how could I go wrong? They even were serving baked potato and green beans! Oh my – my heart thrilled at the thought of real Texas food!

When I walked into the dining room, I told the maître de that I had seen his ad, wanted him to know I would be trying his special, and of course I made it very clear that I was from Texas! He sat me down at a lovely table near the window and promptly had wine brought to my table. Yup, it’s beginning to look good here, I thought.

They had five different offerings of steak – very good first impression. I chose the 6 oz. rib eye, medium rare of course with baked potato and green beans. Took my first sip of the “free” wine and, well, let’s just say I asked for the wine list. Now, I am not a true connoisseur – I have many friends who are, including a couple of actual sommeliers who would have spat the first sip on the floor! I found a nice red on the wine list that looked familiar to some I’ve had before – this was a Chilean wine that I knew would be a bit more palatable.

My dinner was delivered to my table in a reasonable amount of time and the presentation was quite nice. My steak was actually cooked to medium rare perfection! I was indeed, surprised and happy. However……………. Yes, there is a “however”… my steak was already sliced for me. Ok, not really a big deal, but come on, who slices my steaks for me? The steak had been generously dipped in the local steak sauce – keep in mind, this is the Indian version of a Texas steak! The baked potato was dry as a bone. I had to request butter. They brought one little square – it was a tiny square. I asked for three more please! I tried to ask for sour cream, but then remembered – it may come as sour milk, so I just had a potato with butter. Actually, the potato also was cooked perfectly. But the green beans – well, folks, from first bite to the last little piece of green on my plate, were simply wonderful! I ate every last bean I could scrape up!

When I finished the meal, the maître de asked me what I thought. He seemed to really want my opinion as a “Texan.” So I told him… first, bring out the butter, grated cheese, sour cream and chives for the baked potato. He said, “Really??? Oh, OK,” nodding his head in a somewhat happy light bulb going on kind of way. Next, said I, the spice wimp yet Texas gourmand (not), never soak your steaks in the local steak sauce before serving them. If we want sauced steaks, we will ask for steak sauce. He actually seemed to appreciate that bit of advice as well.

Then I told him the green beans were fabulous! His face lit up like it was his birthday! I paid my bill, left a generous tip and said, “I’ll be baaaack”!

After eating so much Indian food, I found a McDonald’s at the local mall and if you’ve ever thought you’ve tasted manna from Heaven – my Mickey D’s filet of fish tasted sooooooooo good! The last time I ate at Mickey D’s was more than a year ago…. I don’t eat fast food… but here in India – I LOVE Mickey D’s!! Add to that, that evnr have a KFC… the colonel is alive and well in India and it tastes like fried chicken!

Last night, both head chefs prepared a very special Christmas dinner just for our little ex-pat group. They went over and above every norm they previously had set. It was a five-course meal set pool-side with flowered centerpieces and Christmas carols playing in the back ground. We had shrimp cocktail (a bit different from what we’re used to, but very good nonetheless), the most delicious cream of mushroom soup I’ve ever tasted, a salad, the turkey served with fresh vegetables, potatoes and an Indian version of cranberry sauce, and of course, a wonderful dessert followed by cappuccinos. We ate until we couldn’t move!

Coming next – co-workers, colleagues and its WORK!

A Tour of Mumbai

On a recent Sunday – my only day off from work – I had my first real look at this centuries old city. It is a dichotomy of modernity, yet still suffers from the inescapable truth of poverty. These two elements lay side by side… inviting the outsider, yet repelling him as well.

The city, with its high rise towers, lush foliage is hugely beset by “tent” cities and buildings that look like they’ve been condemned, yet still house scores of families. Clothing hangs out of windows like beach towels set to dry along a South Texas coast beach resort. In nearly every building where there is an open window, the day’s wash is heralded for all to see.

But then, there are the office buildings made of glass and metal, beautiful in design and architecture. There are high-rise apartment buildings with garden roofs that exude the vibrant foliage and shrubbery of this land. Side by side they stand, in stark contrast.

The streets, to my dismay and in the words of all who warned me, are indeed pitiful. There is so much debris – from trash to concrete and rocks that were once part of roads and byways. The construction here is beyond anything I’ve ever seen. In fact, the construction that hampered rush hour when Texas (Houston) was working on I-10 West is nothing compared to the constant tearing up of streets and highways in Mumbai. Yet traffic continues to move unhampered – and while traffic snarls are a way of life – everyone seems to reach their destinations on time, unscathed and ready for their day.

My driver, a Punjabi Sikh, was extremely attentive and respectful of this Texas gal. We didn’t communicate very well as his English was limited and my Hindi is basically non-existent. However, we did communicate well enough for him to know what I would like to see.

And, see I did. On the way from Navi Mumbai, (New Mumbai) to the larger metropolis of “old” Mumbai, the traffic was as heavy on Sunday as it was on any day during the work week. Taxis of various sizes, shapes and models veered across lanes competing with motorcycles and cars for the fastest path forward.I had to laugh the first time I caught sight of the myriad of “people movers”… the tri-wheeled two seated, doorless contraption that looked like a re-modeled golf cart with full covering. The steering wheel is not… it is a bicycle style steering apparatus that the driver steers with almost unerring accuracy!

And, just as an FYI, pedestrians, the little taxis mentioned above and motorcycles do not have the right of way!Speaking of pedestrians, they walk everywhere on the roads and highways… cars traveling 50 to 60 mph brush the flowing saris worn by the Indian women as they travel to their destination on the inside and outside of the streets.

Luckier travelers, those who at least have two-wheeledtransportation, also seem to take their lives in their hands on a daily basis. I captured a couple of families, yes, whole families of four and five on a motorcycle traveling into the city with my camera… one woman I saw a few days earlier was even carrying her very small baby on the back of the bike. I almost had a heart attack, but my colleague told me it is a normal event here. And, in fact, there are very few accidents and even less road rage.

Of course, no trip to India is complete without seeing the Gateway to India. It was magnificent! Throngs of tourists, travelers and street vendors surrounded the "monument" making the walk from the seawall seem like a day at the zoo! Directly across the street stood the Taj Mahal Hotel, often inhabited by the rich and famous from around the globe. It rose majestically, colored in corals and domed roof areas. And, I've been told they have the best Sushi restaurant in the world - I'm definitely going back!

My driver then took me to the outreaches of Nariman Point to the very edge of the penninsula upon which Mumbai sits. I looked back at an incredible panoramic view of Mumbai! It was amazingly beautiful with the Arabian sea shining brightly in the mid-day sun and the mountains stretching behind the city.

We drove back up the boulevard where the beaches lay with warm brown sand and of course, this Texas girl had to put her feet in the Arabian Sea! We stopped on the way back to the car for a cold drink where I found eateries that encouraged their customers to spread out on the blankets on the sand to eat their lunch. No tables, chairs or sitting areas - simply the brightly colored Indian blankets that covered their area of commerce.

I am enamored by this city, there truly is so much to see here – it has a certain charm – and it definitely has its own personality.

City of Drivers

It’s my third week in Mumbai, and I do believe I’m getting the hang of things here. I can actually sit back and relax on the way to work while our driver navigates the streets of Navi Mumbai. Navi Mumbai is what they call “new” Mumbai… north of the bigger metropolis of Mumbai. As is said in the entire Atlas, this is an extremely large city.

Navigating the city is truly an art that should not be attempted by the novice driver – or the experienced Western driver for that matter. My first excursion into Mumbai traffic was my ride from the airport to my hotel in the middle of the night. One would not expect too much traffic on the roads at 1 am in the morning. In Mumbai, there is traffic 24/7!

Our driver on that trip was exceptionally experienced – or aggressive – not sure which is most applicable! The honking of the horn at each vehicle he passed, each motorbike and even at pedestrians was unnerving to say the least. I hung on to the handle in the back of the car as tightly as I could for the hour plus drive to the hotel.

While it has never been my habit to “buckle-up” in the back seat of an SUV, my work colleague explained that, number one it is “The Law” here and number two – well, let’s just say I now ALWAYS buckle up in the back seat of our taxi sedans/SUVs.

I am so glad I had my seat belt on. I don’t think we ever were in only one lane. There are traffic lanes, but as it was explained to me, those may or may not be adhered to. The same with traffic laws – they are there and should be obeyed, which also is optional. Traffic lights also are optional depending on the time of day.

During peak traffic hours, generally everyone waits their turn at the red light. During other times of the day or night, if there is no other traffic, then red lights are definitely optional and you don’t want to be caught waiting for the light to turn green as you will be flashed, honked and honked at some more until you take the plunge! And just as an FYI – pedestrians do not have the right of way! The bumping of a slow moving street crossing person is almost considered de riguer… pedestrians move, hop, jump and run out of our way.

On the backs of trucks, buses and other large vehicles you will see signs telling other drivers to “honk please” – that means to honk so they know you want to pass, go around or move into their lane. And most amazingly, they do! The constant honking is the Mumbai driving anthem.

The brakes on vehicles apparently are very well maintained as each stop is on incredible short notice. When a sign on the back of a truck/vehicle says stay back, it doesn’t mean what we think it means. It means you can get within six inches of the bumper sometimes less during rush hour.

The cars, three-wheeled taxis, motorbikes and all other road transportation flows together like a river over rocks, but none of the rocks bump, hit or run into each other. The sheer number of vehicles on the streets at any one time is cause for fear, yet still there is a pattern to the driving here – it is chaotic yet with a kind of elegance you will never find on US highways and byways.

Cars inch up for space, if there is an open spot that one can squeeze through, we squeeze, if there is just enough room on the inside of the highway, we take it. If there are three-wheeled taxis in front or beside us, the driver honks and they move out of our way. Motorbikers weave their way through cars like thread through a seam of pants.

Those first few days of driving to and from the office were fearsome! I knew that we would crash, roll over a small taxi or crush a pedestrian walking against the traffic. But it didn’t happen. The driver is an artist, he knows how to use his horn, flash his brights and weave his way through rush hour traffic sometimes only inches from the vehicle next to us.

Now, as I mentioned earlier, I am able to sit back, look out the window at the scenery, construction, people (take your choice) or read my paper with some ease, knowing that I will get to the office on time and in one piece.