It’s all about the food

As most of my friends and acquaintances know, I like to eat... I like food! It shows too! So, here I am in the land of Indian spices, aromatic herbs, five day celebrations for everything from a new child, a marriage (which can last up to 10 days I’m told), house warming’s and more and I make a huge discovery!

It’s not so much of a discovery as it is a confirmation that I am a spice wimp! I know, I know, I’m from Texas where TexMex is either hot, hotter or downright head popping! I love a fresh pica de gallo, the onions, the cilantro, tomatoes, even the green chilies! That I can handle…. I don’t do bell peppers, red peppers, jalapeño’s, or chili peppers… ever!

Yet, there is a difference between good old TexMex and Indian food – the real stuff made right here in India! The amount of spices used in almost every Indian dish can be equated to the amount of salt in the Dead Sea! OK, that is a slight exaggeration – but spice wimp can smell the turmeric, coriander, ginger, Aamchur, Garam Masala and other pungent spices from across the street!

However, spice wimp is tasting, learning and actually beginning to enjoy some of the “lighter” Indian dishes. In fact, the other night our chef prepared an incredible dish that I think was called chicken masala. The sauce was absolutely wonderful. The chicken was tender and tasty. But mostly, I loved the sauce over rice. Oh, the rice here is not what we see as rice at home. This rice is longer grained, light, airily fine and ever so delicate.

A week or so ago, there was an ad in the local Indian newspaper (they are all in English BTW) touting a steak dinner that even a Texan would approve of. Well, I took that as a challenge! Donning my jeans, western shirt, gold Texas pendant, my Rodeo earrings and carrying my red and blue purse with the big Texas star on it, I headed for the hotel advertising said steak. Also, you must realize, that beef here in India is almost unheard of – so this was a very special treat-to-be!

The advertisement said it was a wine and steak fest – every steak ordered received a free glass of wine – how could I go wrong? They even were serving baked potato and green beans! Oh my – my heart thrilled at the thought of real Texas food!

When I walked into the dining room, I told the maître de that I had seen his ad, wanted him to know I would be trying his special, and of course I made it very clear that I was from Texas! He sat me down at a lovely table near the window and promptly had wine brought to my table. Yup, it’s beginning to look good here, I thought.

They had five different offerings of steak – very good first impression. I chose the 6 oz. rib eye, medium rare of course with baked potato and green beans. Took my first sip of the “free” wine and, well, let’s just say I asked for the wine list. Now, I am not a true connoisseur – I have many friends who are, including a couple of actual sommeliers who would have spat the first sip on the floor! I found a nice red on the wine list that looked familiar to some I’ve had before – this was a Chilean wine that I knew would be a bit more palatable.

My dinner was delivered to my table in a reasonable amount of time and the presentation was quite nice. My steak was actually cooked to medium rare perfection! I was indeed, surprised and happy. However……………. Yes, there is a “however”… my steak was already sliced for me. Ok, not really a big deal, but come on, who slices my steaks for me? The steak had been generously dipped in the local steak sauce – keep in mind, this is the Indian version of a Texas steak! The baked potato was dry as a bone. I had to request butter. They brought one little square – it was a tiny square. I asked for three more please! I tried to ask for sour cream, but then remembered – it may come as sour milk, so I just had a potato with butter. Actually, the potato also was cooked perfectly. But the green beans – well, folks, from first bite to the last little piece of green on my plate, were simply wonderful! I ate every last bean I could scrape up!

When I finished the meal, the maître de asked me what I thought. He seemed to really want my opinion as a “Texan.” So I told him… first, bring out the butter, grated cheese, sour cream and chives for the baked potato. He said, “Really??? Oh, OK,” nodding his head in a somewhat happy light bulb going on kind of way. Next, said I, the spice wimp yet Texas gourmand (not), never soak your steaks in the local steak sauce before serving them. If we want sauced steaks, we will ask for steak sauce. He actually seemed to appreciate that bit of advice as well.

Then I told him the green beans were fabulous! His face lit up like it was his birthday! I paid my bill, left a generous tip and said, “I’ll be baaaack”!

After eating so much Indian food, I found a McDonald’s at the local mall and if you’ve ever thought you’ve tasted manna from Heaven – my Mickey D’s filet of fish tasted sooooooooo good! The last time I ate at Mickey D’s was more than a year ago…. I don’t eat fast food… but here in India – I LOVE Mickey D’s!! Add to that, that evnr have a KFC… the colonel is alive and well in India and it tastes like fried chicken!

Last night, both head chefs prepared a very special Christmas dinner just for our little ex-pat group. They went over and above every norm they previously had set. It was a five-course meal set pool-side with flowered centerpieces and Christmas carols playing in the back ground. We had shrimp cocktail (a bit different from what we’re used to, but very good nonetheless), the most delicious cream of mushroom soup I’ve ever tasted, a salad, the turkey served with fresh vegetables, potatoes and an Indian version of cranberry sauce, and of course, a wonderful dessert followed by cappuccinos. We ate until we couldn’t move!

Coming next – co-workers, colleagues and its WORK!

A Tour of Mumbai

On a recent Sunday – my only day off from work – I had my first real look at this centuries old city. It is a dichotomy of modernity, yet still suffers from the inescapable truth of poverty. These two elements lay side by side… inviting the outsider, yet repelling him as well.

The city, with its high rise towers, lush foliage is hugely beset by “tent” cities and buildings that look like they’ve been condemned, yet still house scores of families. Clothing hangs out of windows like beach towels set to dry along a South Texas coast beach resort. In nearly every building where there is an open window, the day’s wash is heralded for all to see.

But then, there are the office buildings made of glass and metal, beautiful in design and architecture. There are high-rise apartment buildings with garden roofs that exude the vibrant foliage and shrubbery of this land. Side by side they stand, in stark contrast.

The streets, to my dismay and in the words of all who warned me, are indeed pitiful. There is so much debris – from trash to concrete and rocks that were once part of roads and byways. The construction here is beyond anything I’ve ever seen. In fact, the construction that hampered rush hour when Texas (Houston) was working on I-10 West is nothing compared to the constant tearing up of streets and highways in Mumbai. Yet traffic continues to move unhampered – and while traffic snarls are a way of life – everyone seems to reach their destinations on time, unscathed and ready for their day.

My driver, a Punjabi Sikh, was extremely attentive and respectful of this Texas gal. We didn’t communicate very well as his English was limited and my Hindi is basically non-existent. However, we did communicate well enough for him to know what I would like to see.

And, see I did. On the way from Navi Mumbai, (New Mumbai) to the larger metropolis of “old” Mumbai, the traffic was as heavy on Sunday as it was on any day during the work week. Taxis of various sizes, shapes and models veered across lanes competing with motorcycles and cars for the fastest path forward.I had to laugh the first time I caught sight of the myriad of “people movers”… the tri-wheeled two seated, doorless contraption that looked like a re-modeled golf cart with full covering. The steering wheel is not… it is a bicycle style steering apparatus that the driver steers with almost unerring accuracy!

And, just as an FYI, pedestrians, the little taxis mentioned above and motorcycles do not have the right of way!Speaking of pedestrians, they walk everywhere on the roads and highways… cars traveling 50 to 60 mph brush the flowing saris worn by the Indian women as they travel to their destination on the inside and outside of the streets.

Luckier travelers, those who at least have two-wheeledtransportation, also seem to take their lives in their hands on a daily basis. I captured a couple of families, yes, whole families of four and five on a motorcycle traveling into the city with my camera… one woman I saw a few days earlier was even carrying her very small baby on the back of the bike. I almost had a heart attack, but my colleague told me it is a normal event here. And, in fact, there are very few accidents and even less road rage.

Of course, no trip to India is complete without seeing the Gateway to India. It was magnificent! Throngs of tourists, travelers and street vendors surrounded the "monument" making the walk from the seawall seem like a day at the zoo! Directly across the street stood the Taj Mahal Hotel, often inhabited by the rich and famous from around the globe. It rose majestically, colored in corals and domed roof areas. And, I've been told they have the best Sushi restaurant in the world - I'm definitely going back!

My driver then took me to the outreaches of Nariman Point to the very edge of the penninsula upon which Mumbai sits. I looked back at an incredible panoramic view of Mumbai! It was amazingly beautiful with the Arabian sea shining brightly in the mid-day sun and the mountains stretching behind the city.

We drove back up the boulevard where the beaches lay with warm brown sand and of course, this Texas girl had to put her feet in the Arabian Sea! We stopped on the way back to the car for a cold drink where I found eateries that encouraged their customers to spread out on the blankets on the sand to eat their lunch. No tables, chairs or sitting areas - simply the brightly colored Indian blankets that covered their area of commerce.

I am enamored by this city, there truly is so much to see here – it has a certain charm – and it definitely has its own personality.

City of Drivers

It’s my third week in Mumbai, and I do believe I’m getting the hang of things here. I can actually sit back and relax on the way to work while our driver navigates the streets of Navi Mumbai. Navi Mumbai is what they call “new” Mumbai… north of the bigger metropolis of Mumbai. As is said in the entire Atlas, this is an extremely large city.

Navigating the city is truly an art that should not be attempted by the novice driver – or the experienced Western driver for that matter. My first excursion into Mumbai traffic was my ride from the airport to my hotel in the middle of the night. One would not expect too much traffic on the roads at 1 am in the morning. In Mumbai, there is traffic 24/7!

Our driver on that trip was exceptionally experienced – or aggressive – not sure which is most applicable! The honking of the horn at each vehicle he passed, each motorbike and even at pedestrians was unnerving to say the least. I hung on to the handle in the back of the car as tightly as I could for the hour plus drive to the hotel.

While it has never been my habit to “buckle-up” in the back seat of an SUV, my work colleague explained that, number one it is “The Law” here and number two – well, let’s just say I now ALWAYS buckle up in the back seat of our taxi sedans/SUVs.

I am so glad I had my seat belt on. I don’t think we ever were in only one lane. There are traffic lanes, but as it was explained to me, those may or may not be adhered to. The same with traffic laws – they are there and should be obeyed, which also is optional. Traffic lights also are optional depending on the time of day.

During peak traffic hours, generally everyone waits their turn at the red light. During other times of the day or night, if there is no other traffic, then red lights are definitely optional and you don’t want to be caught waiting for the light to turn green as you will be flashed, honked and honked at some more until you take the plunge! And just as an FYI – pedestrians do not have the right of way! The bumping of a slow moving street crossing person is almost considered de riguer… pedestrians move, hop, jump and run out of our way.

On the backs of trucks, buses and other large vehicles you will see signs telling other drivers to “honk please” – that means to honk so they know you want to pass, go around or move into their lane. And most amazingly, they do! The constant honking is the Mumbai driving anthem.

The brakes on vehicles apparently are very well maintained as each stop is on incredible short notice. When a sign on the back of a truck/vehicle says stay back, it doesn’t mean what we think it means. It means you can get within six inches of the bumper sometimes less during rush hour.

The cars, three-wheeled taxis, motorbikes and all other road transportation flows together like a river over rocks, but none of the rocks bump, hit or run into each other. The sheer number of vehicles on the streets at any one time is cause for fear, yet still there is a pattern to the driving here – it is chaotic yet with a kind of elegance you will never find on US highways and byways.

Cars inch up for space, if there is an open spot that one can squeeze through, we squeeze, if there is just enough room on the inside of the highway, we take it. If there are three-wheeled taxis in front or beside us, the driver honks and they move out of our way. Motorbikers weave their way through cars like thread through a seam of pants.

Those first few days of driving to and from the office were fearsome! I knew that we would crash, roll over a small taxi or crush a pedestrian walking against the traffic. But it didn’t happen. The driver is an artist, he knows how to use his horn, flash his brights and weave his way through rush hour traffic sometimes only inches from the vehicle next to us.

Now, as I mentioned earlier, I am able to sit back, look out the window at the scenery, construction, people (take your choice) or read my paper with some ease, knowing that I will get to the office on time and in one piece.