Friday, December 2, 2011

A Tour of Mumbai

On a recent Sunday – my only day off from work – I had my first real look at this centuries old city. It is a dichotomy of modernity, yet still suffers from the inescapable truth of poverty. These two elements lay side by side… inviting the outsider, yet repelling him as well.

The city, with its high rise towers, lush foliage is hugely beset by “tent” cities and buildings that look like they’ve been condemned, yet still house scores of families. Clothing hangs out of windows like beach towels set to dry along a South Texas coast beach resort. In nearly every building where there is an open window, the day’s wash is heralded for all to see.

But then, there are the office buildings made of glass and metal, beautiful in design and architecture. There are high-rise apartment buildings with garden roofs that exude the vibrant foliage and shrubbery of this land. Side by side they stand, in stark contrast.


The streets, to my dismay and in the words of all who warned me, are indeed pitiful. There is so much debris – from trash to concrete and rocks that were once part of roads and byways. The construction here is beyond anything I’ve ever seen. In fact, the construction that hampered rush hour when Texas (Houston) was working on I-10 West is nothing compared to the constant tearing up of streets and highways in Mumbai. Yet traffic continues to move unhampered – and while traffic snarls are a way of life – everyone seems to reach their destinations on time, unscathed and ready for their day.


My driver, a Punjabi Sikh, was extremely attentive and respectful of this Texas gal. We didn’t communicate very well as his English was limited and my Hindi is basically non-existent. However, we did communicate well enough for him to know what I would like to see.

And, see I did. On the way from Navi Mumbai, (New Mumbai) to the larger metropolis of “old” Mumbai, the traffic was as heavy on Sunday as it was on any day during the work week. Taxis of various sizes, shapes and models veered across lanes competing with motorcycles and cars for the fastest path forward.I had to laugh the first time I caught sight of the myriad of “people movers”… the tri-wheeled two seated, doorless contraption that looked like a re-modeled golf cart with full covering. The steering wheel is not… it is a bicycle style steering apparatus that the driver steers with almost unerring accuracy!









And, just as an FYI, pedestrians, the little taxis mentioned above and motorcycles do not have the right of way!Speaking of pedestrians, they walk everywhere on the roads and highways… cars traveling 50 to 60 mph brush the flowing saris worn by the Indian women as they travel to their destination on the inside and outside of the streets.


Luckier travelers, those who at least have two-wheeledtransportation, also seem to take their lives in their hands on a daily basis. I captured a couple of families, yes, whole families of four and five on a motorcycle traveling into the city with my camera… one woman I saw a few days earlier was even carrying her very small baby on the back of the bike. I almost had a heart attack, but my colleague told me it is a normal event here. And, in fact, there are very few accidents and even less road rage.


Of course, no trip to India is complete without seeing the Gateway to India. It was magnificent! Throngs of tourists, travelers and street vendors surrounded the "monument" making the walk from the seawall seem like a day at the zoo! Directly across the street stood the Taj Mahal Hotel, often inhabited by the rich and famous from around the globe. It rose majestically, colored in corals and domed roof areas. And, I've been told they have the best Sushi restaurant in the world - I'm definitely going back!


My driver then took me to the outreaches of Nariman Point to the very edge of the penninsula upon which Mumbai sits. I looked back at an incredible panoramic view of Mumbai! It was amazingly beautiful with the Arabian sea shining brightly in the mid-day sun and the mountains stretching behind the city.


We drove back up the boulevard where the beaches lay with warm brown sand and of course, this Texas girl had to put her feet in the Arabian Sea! We stopped on the way back to the car for a cold drink where I found eateries that encouraged their customers to spread out on the blankets on the sand to eat their lunch. No tables, chairs or sitting areas - simply the brightly colored Indian blankets that covered their area of commerce.




I am enamored by this city, there truly is so much to see here – it has a certain charm – and it definitely has its own personality.

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